Chameleons - Helpful Hints and Tricks
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Prepared by
Connie Dorval of Arboreal Exotics

These unique and virtually harmless creatures are curious and shy lizards that resemble small dinosaurs or dragons. Chameleons make interesting pets that are easily maintained when cared for properly. They have inquisitive personalities and at times they will watch you with interest until you take note of them. Then, their bashful ways will take over as they quickly turn sideways on a branch or duck behind a leaf. They are most confident when they think they can’t be seen, and so, it is this bashful behaviour that make the chameleon fascinating and often comical.

Anyone considering a chameleon as a pet must understand that these creatures have very specific needs that have to be met. If their proper care and diet is not provided, a sure death for these gentle creatures is inevitable. Often, by the time a problem manifests itself, it is too late. Prevention is the key to keeping any animal healthy in captivity.

The most important aspects of chameleon care are nutrition, calcium supplementation, and lighting.

The most common ailment and cause of death in chameleons is MBD; metabolic bone disease or rickets. MBD is caused by an imbalance in the phosphorus, calcium ratio and/or lack of vitamin D3. It has also been suggested that an excess of pre-formed vitamin A or a lack of vitamin A (beta-carotene) may result in bone disorders (MBD) despite appropriate levels of calcium, phosphorus, and vitamin D3.

Symptoms of MBD are anorexia, loss of coordination in rear legs, spinal kinking, difficulty walking or perching, weak grip, bowed legs, rubbery jawbone or a spongy casque.

Nutrition and Feeding

Though crickets are the only available ‘main stable’, other insects should be supplemented in a chameleon diet. Waxworms and mealworms are also available though not very nutritious. Wild-caught insects (with the exception of flies) are ideal, though you must be sure they are collected in an area without pesticides in use. Ideally, it is recommended that a chameleon have at least 4-5 different insects in its diet regularly.

The chance of your animal developing MBD increases with an ‘all cricket diet’.

Many insects, particularly mealworms and crickets are high in phosphorus and low in calcium. Therefore, products containing phosphorus should be avoided or used very sparingly.

When chameleons are kept indoors, their food items must be coated daily with a calcium/D3 supplement and a vitamin powder supplement once a week

Insect nutrition is extremely important. As they come from the store, most insects, particularly crickets, need to be gut-loaded 2-3 days before feeding to your chameleon. Provide a carotene-rich diet as follows:

When offering the food to your chameleon use a deep dish or jar to hold the food items. Place a branch near the jar so that the chameleon can access the food easily. You will be able to keep a better record of what and how much your chameleon eats if you use this feeding method. Furthermore, you can easily remove uneaten insects and provide fresh gut loaded ones every couple of days to ensure the nutritional value of the food. If you leave food in the cage all the time, the chameleon may actually suffer from a reduced appetite. A ‘fast’ day once a week will help prevent this and it will also reduce the chance of the chameleon refusing to eat.

Watering your chameleon can be done in several ways. The most common and natural is spraying down the terrarium once or twice a day. Drip systems can be used and occasionally a chameleon will learn to drink from a dish or pipette. Keep in mind that naturally, chameleons are drawn to moving beads of water. Never panic if you don’t see your chameleon drink.

Housing

Lighting and Heat

The best source of lighting for your chameleons is unfiltered sunlight. During the summer months this is accomplished by having an outdoor enclosure. However, for the most part, chameleons must live indoors under artificial lighting.

UVB and UVA are essential for a healthy chameleon. They must be provided with a fluorescent light that spans the entire length of the terrarium/cage, and should be no further away from the top than 6 inches. They should be exposed to this type of lighting for a minimum of 12 hours per day. Experts suggest that two 5.0 ZooMed Iguana Lights are necessary, however most keepers raise chameleons successfully with one. It must be a full spectrum reptile fluorescent bulb. Other ‘full spectrum’ bulbs will not do as they do not provide sufficient UVB and UVA radiation.

The fluorescent light provides the chameleon with the necessary elements to produce vitamin D3 which in turn, affects the animals ability to metabolize and absorb calcium from its diet. Without it, MBD is almost inevitable.

Many chameleons are avid baskers that love heat, while others like very limited small doses of heat. It’s important to understand that each species of chameleon is different, with different humidity and temperature requirements. Every chameleon - like every diurnal (active during the day) reptile - should have access to a basking light. Generally, nothing exceeding 50 watts should be used as most chameleons do not like to be hot. The most heat loving chameleons should not have basking areas that get warmer than 34oC (90oF). The spot lamp should be placed only at one end of the enclosure providing the chameleon with a temperature gradient. Signs of overheating are very pale coloration and gaping (open mouth). Adults can regulate their temperatures quite well, however, young chameleons and juveniles cannot and they will quickly overheat. The temperature in a juveniles cage should not exceed 29oC (85 oF). Care should be taken to prevent too much direct sunlight from penetrating the cage. If this is permitted, the tank can become too hot and your animals will die. Spot lamps can remain on for heat 6-8 hours a day as long as the desired temperature is maintained. Using a timer to control the lights will make your life easier and will provide a stable light and temperature cycle for your animals. Products such as heat rocks, infrared lights, and night lights are not necessary for chameleons. These animals need a natural night cooling period to remain healthy.

Enclosures

A glass terrarium is adequate housing for many chameleons; however, screened or partially screened cages are better for montane species. These animals benefit from the increased air flow.

Plenty of sturdy branches and full foliage should be provided to permit the chameleon to move and hide to eliminate stress. A sparsely decorated terrarium is not an appropriate environment for a chameleon. Silk/plastic plants provide good cover for the chameleons while only some live plants may be used since chameleons will eat them. Since the chameleons may eat the plants, they must be non-toxic and free of pesticides. Potting soil without vermiculite or perlite should be used to pot the plants as the perlite and vermiculite will kill the chameleon if consumed.

Notes on Behaviour

Most chameleons are aggressive toward one another and will become unduly stressed if housed together in cramped quarters. Most chameleons should be kept singly once they mature.

Body language should be monitored closely because the chameleons will display their reactions quite clearly. The most significant changes are in colour. Contrary to popular belief, chameleons do not change colour to blend in with their environment. Colour changes signify changes in physiological and emotional state. Therefore, drastic changes in colour can indicate anything from anger, reproductive state, excitement, stress, and sickness. A chameleon’s eyes should remain open and alert during daylight hours. If this is not the case, your chameleon is most likely sick.

Most chameleons reach sexual maturity at about 6 months of age depending on the species. Do not worry if your chameleons eating habits are slightly different at this age. Growing animals consume and require large amounts of food while adults require considerably less food. As long as your animal does not go for more than a week without eating, there is no need to worry. Fasting may occur for longer periods in females that are gravid (pregnant).

When handling your chameleons never place your hand over the body and lift, or attempt to pluck or pull the from where they are. This will anger them because touching a chameleon’s spine is interpreted as a sign of aggression; furthermore their legs and feet can be fragile. You should gently coax the chameleon onto your hand by placing one hand in front of them and prodding it with the other from behind, allowing the chameleon to climb on you. Patience is required.

Occasionally, a chameleon will ‘pop’ its’ eye out to scratch it or simply to dislodge a particle. At times, white salt deposits can be seen around the nostrils. These are both normal occurrences.

Important Notes and Conclusions

Sources (Suggested Reading):

Bartlett, R.D. and P. Bartlett. 1995. Chameleons. Barron’s Educational Series Inc., New York. Pp. 103.

Bartlett, R.D. and P. Bartlett. 1997. Lizard Care from A to Z. Barron’s Educational Series Inc., New York. Pp. 178.

Chameleon Information Network - based in California, they release a quarterly newsletter on the latest information on health, species, and breeding of chameleons. It offers the best extensive information on chameleons currently available. Applications or information regarding the CIN can be obtained from the breeder or through a retailer.

Davison, L.J. 1997. Chameleons: Their Care and Breeding. Hancock House Publishers Ltd., Surrey, British Columbia. P.p. 112.

de Vosjoli, Philip and Gary Ferguson. 1995. Care and Breeding of Chameleons. Advanced Vivarium Systems, Lakeside, California. Pp. 128.

Le Berre, Francois. 1995. The New Chameleon Handbook. Barron’s Educational Series Inc., New York. Pp. 128.

Rogner, Manfred. 1997. Lizards, Volume 1. Krieger Publishing Company, Malabar, Florida. Pp. 317.

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